Orchid care: keeping a moth orchid healthy and blooming

Light

• Give it indirect light, ideally from an east-facing window; a west window also works. [1, 2]
• In winter it can move into direct light or a south window. [1]
• Read the leaves: light green means the light is right, dark green and stiff means too little, and pink or reddish edges mean too much. [1]
• In winter, don’t let the leaves touch cold window glass: it damages them. [2]

Watering

• In bark, watering about once a week is usually enough; in moss, water when the top feels dry. Water less in winter. [1, 2]
• Water at the sink: run lukewarm water through the pot for a minute or so, then let it drain completely before it goes back on its saucer. [1, 2]
• Lift the pot first: if it still feels heavy, it doesn’t need water yet. [2]
• Roots above the pot turn from silvery white to pale green when they’ve had enough water. [1]
• Misting alone doesn’t give an orchid enough moisture. [1]

Potting mix and pots

• Use a commercial orchid bark mix in a pot with excellent drainage. [1, 3]
• Bark holds less water than moss. Sphagnum moss isn’t a good long-term mix and can cause root rot if kept wet. [2, 3]
• Choose a pot just big enough for the roots: a pot that’s too large holds too much moisture. [3]

Humidity

• A pebble tray under the pot raises the humidity around it. Don’t flood the tray, or the roots stay too wet. [1]
• Low humidity combined with too little water causes wrinkled leaves. [1]

Temperature

• Keep it between about 60 °F and 85 °F. [2]
• Cooler night temperatures in fall help it set new flower spikes. [1]
• If it spends summer outdoors, wait until nights are above 55 °F, and bring it in when evenings dip into the 50s. [1, 2]

Feeding

• Feed lightly while it’s growing or flowering. University of Maryland suggests an orchid fertilizer at label strength every third or fourth watering; Clemson suggests a balanced orchid fertilizer (such as 10-10-10) from mid-spring to early fall. [1, 2]
• Skip feeding in the cooler, darker winter months. [1]
• Overfeeding gives lush leaves at the expense of flowers. [1]

Repotting

• Repot every one to three years, before the bark breaks down into fine, mulch-like bits that hold too much water. [1, 2, 3]
• Never repot while it’s in bloom. [2]
• Guides differ on timing: Clemson suggests shortly after flowering, or late winter to early spring once new roots appear; University of Maryland suggests whenever new growth starts. [1, 2, 3]
• Trim off dead or damaged roots with sterile snips. Healthy roots are white with green tips. [1, 3]
• If roots are stuck to the old pot, soak them until they come free without breaking. [1]

Getting it to bloom again

• The most common reason an orchid won’t flower is too little light. [1]
• When the flowers fade, cut a yellowed or brown spike back to about ½ inch above the second node and watch for new buds. [1]
• Or cut the spike down to the leaves; the plant usually produces a strong new spike within a year. [2]

Air roots

• Many of its roots grow above the pot. That’s normal: don’t cut them off. [1]

Are orchids toxic to pets?

• The ASPCA lists Phalaenopsis (moth) orchids as non-toxic to dogs, cats and horses. [4]

Compare with other plants in our pet-safe houseplant checker.